Malcolm Palmer sailed round the UK in summer 2007 for charity
|
|
|
Blog WEEK 14 Thursday 6 September
The conditions were perfect for the final sail from Brighton to Chichester. Left Brighton at 0600 with a northerly F4 for most of the trip. At the last moment Malcolm Fieldhouse (taught me to sail 10 years ago and now runs Sailing Days) joined me for this last 7 hour trip. WEEK 13 Friday 31 August
It was a straight forward sail today from Dover to Brighton. I left at 0600 to a pleasant sunrise. Dover is one of the busy shipping ports where you have to ask permission to both enter and leave either of the two entrances. Just like planes at airports. Thursday 30 August
Nick at Harwich town quay this morning was typical of many marina folks who have been incredibly helpful to me on this trip. Advice on the passage, taking lines to tie up. Pushing the boat off this morning. One of the benefits of being single handed is folks come to your aid. And you get to meet some interesting people. Wednesday 29 August A 2 knot tide helped shoot me down the coast to Harwich today. I set off at just after six and was here by lunchtime. Tuesday 28 August For any folk planning a solo trip of this nature I would stress the need to take time out from pure sailing to plan ahead and check the boat. I was all ready to set off again at 0600 this morning when I found I had just about run out of fuel. I put this down to being too tired the night before to check and refuel then. WEEK 12 Monday 27 August As I left Blakeney this morning about 50 seals were gathered on a spit of sand at the entrance. It was a lovely sight to set me on my way. Sunday 26 August Today it was a pretty relaxing trip from Grimsby to Blakeney, top/middle of East Anglia. The sun was out and the water mostly calm. Saturday 25 August It's been sunny all day on my sail down from Scarborough to Grimsby. The wind increased in the afternoon to F6 at times. The trip took 10 hours. Thursday 23 August These north-east seas are pretty impressive. Certainly the largest I've encountered. Probably due to a few days of high winds. But my ability to sail in them has improved. I'd guess the biggest wave heights of about 30 to 40 feet. One got me on the side and drenched the cockpit area. I just hung-on to the wheel. I clipped myself on after that one. Wednesday 22 August Spent most of the day with the boat out of the water replacing an anode behind the propeller. The boat is back on the water but unfortunately the resonance I've experienced is still present. Specialists tell me its nothing serious - just cavitation of the propeller blades. I hope. Tuesday 21 August Today I had the boat lifted out to inspect the propeller. I've been experiencing a vibration since Wales which has been attributed to cavitation at the propeller. I'd previously donned the snorkel and had a look but could not see any problems. WEEK 11 Saturday 18 to Monday 20 August I rested on Saturday. Fixing and cleaning the boat. On Sunday the winds and sea state were too high to sail. On the Monday morning the winds had died down and the breaking waves at the entrance to the harbour were less ferocious. I managed to get the boat out safely and sail to a marina about a mile or so up the River Tyne near Newcastle. It was a fairly demanding sail at times with F6 winds and steep rolling seas. Although I stayed between 5 and 10 miles out to avoid the rough seas there were quite a few seals watching my progress south. It took about 12 hours to complete the 60 mile journey. Friday 17 August
There was a mayday alert today on my sal from Stonehaven to Eyemouth. A fishing boat a mile off Ambroath lost a crew member overboard. Lots of boats and two helicopters joined the search (I was just too far offshore to join). It took about 5 hours to find the person. I'm not sure if they survived that long in the cold water. Let's hope its good news. The weather was good today. The sun shining and the sea pretty smooth. It took me 12 hours to cover the 66 mile passage. I saw two dolphins about halfway. Then a small seal off the rocks near Eyemouth.
The harbour master at Eyemouth kindly agreed the £15 fee for the night go to Outward Bound. Thank you. Thursday 16 August The wind was stronger than forecast today. Nevertheless I sailed to Stonehaven. A lovely little town about 15 miles south of Aberdeen. Apparently yachts are not welcome in Aberdeen itself. It was a tough sail. Winds up to 30 knots (F7). It took about 6 hours from Peterhead. The boat was pounding in the waves and I took a lot of spray in the face. Again it was F9 about 40 miles north. So in a way I was fortunate. Its noticable that fishing is still a main industry in this part of UK. There was a pan-pan today from one fishing vessel. I'd imagine the weather a factor. I'd like to thank Jim and the good people at Peterhead who kindly let me stay free. £16 will be allocated to RNLI on their behalf. Also, I'd like to thank the harbour master here at Stonehaven who agreed to waive the night's fee of £15 to support Williams Fund. Thankyou Sir. Wednesday 15 August Had an excellent sail today from Lossiemouth, where I was circled by a Tornado (plane), to Peterhead. So I've now turned the corner back south. It only took me 10 hours to sail - an average speed of 6.5 knots. The wind was F4,5 and 6 from West and the tide peaked at about 3 knots - hence the quick pace. Although quick it meant helming for most of the trip. 7 knots was common. So it was pretty exhausting sailing solo. Lots of tea, coffee and soup was required. I'm glad I chose to sail today. The gales to the north of me nearly put me off. Tuesday 14 August The kind folk who operate the locks through the Caledonian Canal are exceptional. Yesterday my wife drove off south with my wallet in her bag. She can do these things. Actually it was my fault (of course) for putting it there the day before. Anyway. The lock-keeper was very helpful. Wanting to know if I needed cash and had everything. Needless to say, nothing is too much trouble helping folks navigate the locks. Well done Caledonian Canal for great service throughout! So, back to the trip. I set off at 0845 from about 5 miles from the sea lock at Inverness. After about 5 locks, two car swing bridges and one railway swing bridge I was back on the sea. It was now about 1330.
After the sea-lock I set off for Lossiemouth. About 7 hours sailing along the Moray Firth. The wind was directly from the East so I dropped the sails after a while and motored. The coast here is marvellous. Miles of sandy beaches with a backdrop of pine woods. I reached Lossiemouth at 2100 and scraped into the entrance just after low water. Two local boatowners helped me tie up in a narrow berth allocated to me by the harbour master earleir over the phone.
WEEK 10 Saturday 11 August to Monday 13 August We motored through Loch Ness (and the rain) stopping at Dochgarroch. I had the electronic fishfinder switched on for most of the trip, but alas, no sighting of Nessie, or, infact any fish at all. We've been doing a sail-drive throughout the Caledonian Canal. At the end of each sail we somehow get back to pick up the car to bring back to the boat. So I've done this route 3 times now: by boat, buses, car and on foot. The best spots for me have been due to good weather on the western side. The mountain back-drop and tree-lined waterways are superb. Fort Augustus is a nice town to visit. It centres on the series of Locks and has some nice pubs offering good food. The tranquility of Gairlochy at the weatern end of Loch Locky is also quite nice. The Loch Ness Monster shops etc at Drumnadrochit are very touristy. Monday morning my wife and two little ones left the boat to head home. Its been wonderful having their company for a few days. Albeit very tricky keeping 3 and 5 year-olds entertained on the rainy days. It didn't help much when I accidently emptied much of a bucket of Loch water over my 3 year old whilst she was sleeping one morning. I was washing the boat down and hadn't realised the hatch above her was still open. Maybe that's one of the reasons she said tearfully last night "daddy, I don't like being on the boat". She wants to go to Lanzarote instead. Me too, I said. Friday 10 August The big acheievemnt today was getting my Blackberry fixed. This meant I could send my blogs and receive mails again. We travelled the length of Loch Lochy (imaginative name!) - spending the night at the lower end of Loch Oich. Thursday 9 August We travelled only about 5 miles today. Staying at a lovely quiet spot at Gairlochy
Wednesday 8 August
I was up at 0730. The wind had died down and it was a lovely sunny day for the 5 hour trip to Fort William and the entrance to the Caledonian Canal. I motorsailed most of the way and took many photos. Again there were many islands to pass but much easier passage than yesterday. Some of the rocky islands I passed had seals on them - enjoying the morning sun. I arrived at the sea lock at Corpach in good time. The it was a 4 hour slog getting up the first series of locks (about 10 - I lost count!). I stayed the night at Banavie where I met up with my family for the trip along the canal and Lochs to Inverness Tuesday 7 August The winds were as strong as ever but decided to attempt the passage to Oban. This was made more challenging due to the combination of strong winds, the complex route between many islands and hidden rocks plus the tides meant a late departure scheduled to arrive just before dark. The NNW winds made for little progress for the first hour. I was against tide for a while and the strong winds on the nose meant only making about 5 miles in the first 2 hours. But I then managed to raise the mainsail (2 reefs) and began to pick up speed. The sea was rough in the exposed parts. I was fortunate to make Oban at 2100 after a 5 hour journey. I picked up a swinging mooring off the Island of Kerrara, near Oban. Monday 6 August With the help of Jim the pilot I completed the passage along the Crinan Canal. It took just over 3 hours to arrive at Crinan without any knocks or problems. In the afternoon the wind increased to F6. WEEK 9 Sunday 5 August Today, in the rain and low cloud and no wind I motored up to the entrance of the Crinan Canal. This is midway up Loch Fyne. The canal links Loch Fyne to the Sound of Jura. A passage of some 8 miles and many locks. It took me 2 hours to reach the sea-lock entrance.
Saturday 4 August I said my goodbyes to Rose the resident seal at Bangor marina and set sail for Scotland today. I was delighted that Kevin and his team agreed that the 2 night fee (£45) go to RNLI. Thank you. Although the forecast was risky (severe gales in Malin) most of the sail was a steady F4 to 5. Although it did blow up to over 30 knots for a short while - but I had the sails well reefed so no problems. Thankfully it died back after about 30 minutes so I could re-engage the auto-helm again for the bulk of the journey. I arrived at Tarbert in Scotland after about 12 hours. A journey of some 70 miles. So excellent average speed due mainly to favourable currents all the way. Tarbert is a lovely little town where all the boaty folk appear to have at least one dog in tow. (Or other way round). I can't work out why. Any suggestions?
Thursday 2 August Had excellent sunny weather today on the sail across to Ireland. It took just 10 hours to reach Bangor. The strong winds forecast didn't materialise - which was just as well after yesterday. At mid-point across it was so clear I could see three countires: Ireland, Scotland and IoM. It was lovely but I was exhausted by the time I reached the marina. - where I was met by a cheeky seal who was watching the kids fishing off the pier. Personally I wouldn't bother fishing next to a seal.
Wednesday 1 August
Left Holyhead at 0900 passing just outside the notorious Skerries. The strong tide was pushing me towards these rocks so I had to point alongway West to ferry-glide past safely. Tuesday 31 July Left Anchor at 0700 and passed two large seals on rocks taking in the morning sun. My first seal sighting of the whole trip.
Monday 30 July Set off from Pwllheli at 1100 and at 1400 anchored off the beach at Aberdaron. It was a lovely sunny day and I used the dingy to get to shore on the sandy/rocky beach. There were quite a few folks on the beach and I met up with my family for a while. At 1600 I set off again through Bardsey Sound - a stretch of water between Bardsey Island and the mainland. This can be a hair-raising passage but today all was calm and easy-going. It is famous for seals and dolphins but they must have been busy elsewhere today.
WEEK 7 Monday 16 July to Sunday 22 July The highly unsettled weather in the Irish Sea (and rest of UK) continues, so I have put on hold setting off for Scotland until I get a Met Office forecast of at least 5 days settled weather. This looks unlikely for the next week. As a result of these weather delays I'm now looking to extend the charity sail through both August and September. WEEK 6 Friday 13 July Well I made the decision to travel back home again today and retry next Thursday when the tides (and hopefully weather) for getting to Holyhead are more favourable. I certainly didn't fancy sailing through the night on Monday even if the weather turned good. I've tried this at 'springs' before and it's impossible to see without the moon. And these shores have numerous obstacles like lobster pots scattered around. Thursday 12 July Set off from Pwllheli for Holyhead at 1000 but conditions were too poor so I turned back after one hour. This was a big disappointment for me. The weather is due to get worse Friday and Saturday so I'm now stuck until Sunday. If I leave Sunday it would have to be in the dark (2.00 am) with no moon (it's springs) and the tides around Bardsey Island and Holyhead will be at their strongest. If I wait for a day-light sail and more forgiving tides it'll be another week. Difficult choices. Wednesday 11 July After recent storms and high winds at last I got to sail from Aberystwyth to Pwllheli today. WEEKS 4 and 5 and 6 Sunday 24 June to Tuesday 10 July July Sadly no progress again. The unseasonal weather is the problem. I'm pinned in Aberystwyth by strong force 6 to 8 winds and some big waves. So, for the second time I'm now making my way home to sit it out. The forecasts as of today are not optimistic. Apart from a brief lull in the high winds predicted for the weekend the next 2 weeks looks unsettled. WEEK 3 Saturday 23 June Set off from Fishguard at 0930 for Aberystwyth. It was a rainy and blowy start, pretty much on a straight line following the coast. The sun came out after a couple of hours and all was very pleasant until about an hour off Aberystwyth. Then a strong wind and heavy sea got up from the west. And guess what the pilot book suggests: beware going into Aberystwyth in strong west winds. Anyway, I did get in safely through the narrow walled entrance - although the waves side-on the boat caused a lot of rolling and pitching. I had a freindly welcome from the marina manager and a kind chap helped me tie the boat up. One bloke offered me a couple of fish from a basket of about 20 he'd just caught. Friday 22 June Click on images for larger versions
After 5 days hold-up due to bad weather I finally left Milford Haven at 0900 today. I've been preparing for today's sail quite a while as I would be passing through two tight spots between the Islands of Skomer and Ramsey. These are notoriously difficult passages with very fast tidal streams and turbulent water, with the added attraction of rocks dotted everwhere through the passage. So it was great that the bloke in the marina office told me about the spate of people who died going through these passages last year. The others at the marina call him Fraser as he had that "you're doomed" expression about him. (Dad's Army). Monday - Thursday 18 - 21 June Waiting for calmer weather before heading off from Milford up to Holyhead. Forces 6 and 7 are being forecast in places. I hope tomorrow's (Friday's) weather will be settled enough to get round to Fishguard. We'll see. WEEK 2 Sunday 17 June: Left Padstow for Milford Haven at 0500. En-route met a numer of dolphins that joined me for periods swimming alongside the boat playing in the bow-wave. At one time I counted at least 10. There could have been double. It was quite thrilling. One dolphin in particular I will always remember. I was leaning over the bow waving at it (as you do) and in return it swam on its side making eye contact and then repeatedly flipped its dorsal fin to splash and wave at me. One smart dolphin!
Wednesday 13 June Anchored outside St Ives last night and left like a bat out of hell this morning - I had far too much sail up for the Force 5 to 6 wind. The weather was all over the place on the 5 hour sail to Padstow. But I did pass a basking shark en-route. Then the storm clouds gathered as I arrived at Padstow. Padstow Marina donated their £48 marina fee to William's Fund Tuesday 12 June I left anchor at Helford River at 0645. It was misty and wet heading down to the Lizard. The sea was pretty rough in the 'race' at Lizard. Then the sun came out and the wind dropped so decided to change plan and head for St Ives rather than Penzance. It was great fun (and a bit tense) steering a course through the Lands End obstacles of rocks, especially as the weather turned (again) so the sea and wind became quite strong. But success! Arrived in St Ives at 1640 and saw 3 dolphins as I came in! WEEK 1 Monday 11 June Spent most of the day resting and preparing for the next leg in Falmouth. Although moved out of the marina to anchor for the night in the Helford River. This is a very pretty place famed by Daphne du Maurier's Frenchman's Creek. Sunday 10 June Sailed from Whitsand Bay to Falmouth taking about 6 hours to complete. But when I arrived I was exhausted. Must be all the early mornings and fresh air. Saturday 9 June
Today I moved to a spot just off a beach near Plymouth and met up with Jim Shekhdar, the ocean rower. Jim recently bought a nice little beach cafe called Eddystone Cafe at
the bottom of Tregonhawke Cliff,
Whitsand Bay. He was doing a roaring trade today in the hot sunshine and I can certainly recommend the all-day breakfast.
Friday 8 June Today was the longest sail I have ever done on my own. I Left Poole at first light on the tide. It was a grey and misty start but with a good breeze and a strong tide around the headlands that included Portland Bill.
At midday I was halfway across Lyme Bay (thanks to 3 knot tides in places). Arrived in Brixham Marina at 3.15 to a warm welcome from their friendly staff who helped me berth the boat. It's a lovely relaxed place to be. I'm feeling tired but pleased to have managed a long sail on my own without any problems. Brixham Marina kindly agreed to divert the marina fee to the RNLI
Thursday 7 June After setting the alarm this morning for 3.30 AM I decided best fix the depth guage today rather than take on the 70 miles to Brixham. Pleased to say all is now working properly - and its been a lovely day here at Poole. I've been watching the locals waterskiing. Very nice! I also took opportunity to plot my next leg in much greater detail. Anyway, should be getting away on tomorrow's tide at 4.00 AM. If all goes well I will arive at about 10.00 PM in Brixham
Wednesday 6 June
Had a good first night away at East Cowes Marina. Many marinas are very basic but these guys have the best showers I've come across! The marina let me stay free last night if I donated £25 to RNLI. Left Cowes just after lunch. Weak following breeze meant motor-sailing again to anchor at Studland Bay - jusy outside Poole. Took me four and a half hours via the Needles on IoW. Only problem today was one of my depth indicators stopped working.
Tuesday 5 June Well, preparations have been exhaustive but finally set sail from Chichester today for Cowes on IoW. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Cornwall on boat
